Shooting Positions & Field Rests
Your objective
By the end, you'll be able to choose and build the steadiest field shooting position the situation allows, use an available rest, and decide when no position is steady enough to shoot.
A buck steps into the open at 150 yards. From the bench you’d make this shot in your sleep — but you’re standing in the woods, heart pounding, rifle swimming all over him. The bench made you a shooter; the field tests whether you can build a steady position when it counts. This lesson is how.
Quick recall
Quick recall from Marksmanship Fundamentals — a steady hold comes mainly from what?
The four positions, ranked by stability
Hunter education and the NRA teach the same hierarchy. More body on the ground = steadier. From most to least stable:
- Prone — the steadiest. You’re flat on the ground, the most body in contact with the earth, so it’s the easiest to hold and the best for mastering the fundamentals. Legs spread, heels flat, cheek snug on the comb, support hand under the rear of the rifle. The catch: brush, grass, or terrain often block the line of sight.
- Sitting — second. Three strong points of contact (seat, plus each leg/elbow). Sit, dig your boot heels in, and lock both elbows over your knees. Steady, fast enough to build, and clears low cover better than prone.
- Kneeling — third. Down on the strong-side knee, sit on that heel, support elbow over the support knee — but only one elbow-knee connection, so it’s less steady than sitting. It’s quick and gets you a little higher over brush.
- Standing (offhand) — least steady. Lots of air between the rifle and the ground means lots of wobble. Useful only when nothing lower works, and best reserved for close, easy shots — or braced on a rest.
Any rest beats no rest
Whatever position you’re in, a rest makes it steadier. Rests are the great equalizer — they let a hunter take a solid shot from a position that would otherwise be too wobbly. The common field rests:
- Shooting sticks (bipod/tripod sticks). Cross-sticks form an “X”; rest the union of rifle and sticks in your support hand, lean into them, and adjust elevation by raising/lowering the sticks. They turn a standing shot into a realistic one.
- A backpack. Drop your pack in front of you and rest the forestock on top — a near-prone-grade rest you carry everywhere. Squeeze or shape the pack for fine elevation.
- A tree or post. Brace the back of your support hand against the trunk and the rifle against your hand — never the bare barrel against the tree (it shifts point of impact and damages nothing good). A standing-braced shot is far steadier than true offhand.
Edge case Two rest mistakes that throw the shot
Resting the barrel directly on a hard object (tree, rail, rock) makes the barrel bounce differently as the shot fires and walks your point of impact — rest the forestock or your hand, never the barrel itself. Bone-on-bone contact — like setting your elbow point right on your kneecap in sitting or kneeling — is a wobbly ball-joint; slide the elbow forward onto the soft muscle just past the knee so it locks instead of rolls. Small fixes, big difference at distance.
Build the shot
A real moment unfolds. Make the calls a steady hunter makes.
Decision
A buck feeds into the open at 150 yards. You're standing in light brush. Offhand, the crosshair is swimming all over him. What do you do?
You're sitting and steadier. Your loaded pack is right beside you, and there's a sapling within reach. How do you finish?
He's down. What made the shot?
Check the calls
Knowledge check
You have time and the terrain is open and flat. Which position should you build for the steadiest shot?
Knowledge check
You're braced beside a tree for a standing shot. Where should the rifle contact the tree?
Take it to the woods
Steady positions are a physical skill — you have to drill them, not just read them. Run this at your next range session (and dry-practice them at home first):
Field-position range drill
Sources
Official and authoritative references retrieved for this lesson:
- NRA / American Hunter — “Training to Shoot from Field Positions: Prone, Sitting, Kneeling and Standing”: https://www.americanhunter.org/content/training-to-shoot-from-field-positions-prone-sitting-kneeling-and-standing/
- Hunter-Ed (IHEA-USA) — Firing Positions: Prone (prone is steadiest; best for the fundamentals): https://www.hunter-ed.com/national/studyGuide/Firing-Positions-Prone/201099_92888/
- Hunter-Ed (IHEA-USA) — Firing Positions: Sitting: https://www.hunter-ed.com/national/studyGuide/Firing-Positions-Sitting/201099_92890/
- CMP / USAMU Service Rifle Team — FAQs on shooting positions & natural point of aim: https://thecmp.org/training-tech/shooting-tips-from-the-usamu-service-rifle-team/usamu-faqs-shooting-positions/
If you remember nothing else
- Stability ranking, most to least steady: PRONE, SITTING, KNEELING, STANDING. Take the lowest, steadiest one the terrain allows.
- Steadiness comes from bone support and contact with the ground — prone wins because the most body touches the earth.
- ANY rest beats no rest: shooting sticks, a pack, or bracing on a tree turns a wobbly position into a solid one.
- Rest the forestock (or your hand on the rest), never the barrel directly — and never rest a bone-on-bone joint like elbow-on-kneecap.
- If you can't get steady enough for a clean hit, that's a PASS. A bad position is a wounded animal.
How ready do you feel?
How ready are you to drop into the steadiest position a real hunting moment allows — or to pass — instead of taking a wobbly offhand shot?
Before you go — a quick look back
Distributed practice: one fast recall from an earlier lesson keeps it from fading.
Quick recall
From Marksmanship Fundamentals — once you're in position, how do you confirm the rifle is settled on the target without muscling it?
Done with this lesson?
Mark it complete to track your way through the path. Saved on this device — no account needed.